Wednesday 24 May - Cape Leveque and Horizontal Falls

Most of our travel companions were due to depart today, however we had to be up at cockies crow because we had booked a trip to Cape Leveque and the Horizontal Falls.

Our drive out to Cape Leveque was very interesting and included a stop at Beagle Bay where there is a beautiful old church built by German Pallotine monks in 1917. The alter and everywhere in the church is decorated in the mother of pearl shells so famous in the area. We had a cup of tea here before heading to Cape Leveque.

At Cape Leveque we had a terrific breakfast and then were driven down on to the beach. What a stunning place. The colours of the water, sand and red rocks were amazing.

A short walk from the camp site here, are these cabins

This is the view enjoyed by those who rent the cabins

So many businesses are run by local indigenous people

Afterwards near the airstrip we called into a fish farm where we were taught all about the types of fish the local aboriginals catch in addition to the pearl shells. There was many of these for sale – beautifully polished as well we being made into lovely jewellery.

This fellow spends his time down in a hole in the rock and only comes up when food passes by

Unlike these rapacious feeders which simply launch themselves out of the water to grab what's on offer

A young barramundi

We took these shots with our underwater camera

Our lovely guide

There were only eleven of us on the tour and so we filled one plane. Fortunately for Ian and I, as we were taller, we were selected to sit at the tail of the plane by ourselves, so we had great seats. The flight out to the floating facility in Talbot Bay was so wonderful, the camera got a good work out, but it is always difficult taking such photos. So many will have to be discarded.

My angle coming past the Horizontal Falls

Ian's angle was better - as you can see the water is dead calm

We landed in Talbot Bay and were greeted warmly by the staff at the pontoon. This is quite some operation. It is possible to stay overnight out there and tour around more of the bay – something for another day perhaps! They also have a helicopter on the pontoon for more low flying looks over the falls.

We had a simple BBQ barra lunch and salad – the best barra we have ever tasted. However, before lunch we were able to swim in a cage and watch sharks being fed. This was fun and it was lovely in the water. Got some reasonable snaps underwater with our new underwater camera.

After lunch it was time for the main event – our thrilling ride out to the Horizontal Falls. This 4-engine monster certainly had plenty of grunt to cope with the conditions passing through these gaps in the ranges. The ride is certainly very thrilling too. What a job the young man has doing this all day every day for the dry season! The water very quickly changes levels and by the time we had run through the wider gap a couple of times and then the narrow gap once the height of the ‘falls’ had increased to the point where it would no longer be possible to pass through.

Approaching the wider gap. All fairly calm

We wait for a while and allow this smaller boat to go through. There comes a point when they can no longer tackle the more forceful flow

The water pouring through the gap starts churning out on the other side, where we wait

Off we go. It's a little bumpy.

Looking back to where we came from and the Kimberley cruise boat moored there.

Around we go again

There comes a point when the smaller cruise boats can no longer cope with the wider gap. It is too dangerous for them to tackle the narrower gap too.

Approaching the narrow gap

Our skilful driver holds the engines at a point where we are kept in a central position in the gap

The 'wall' is rising

Getting steeper

The dark band is the 'top' of the wall

Heading back 'down' the wall of water

It's quite steep now. In the space of about 10 minutes the water has risen to this from relatively flat but turbulent water. We are on our last pass. Thereafter it is too dangerous even for our powerful boat.

One last look before negotiating the wider gap and back to the calm waters of Talbot Bay

Afterwards we returned to the pontoon for a short stop before being taken out for a longer boat trip into Cyclone Creek, so called because it is one of the safest water moorings during cyclone conditions. This was a lovely trip because the geology of the towering red cliffs was very apparent with angled and waved rock demonstrating the long ago uplifiting which happened to these ancient rocks.

All too soon it was time to re-board our float plane and return to Broome. This was a very exciting and fulfilling end to what had been an extraordinary trip. It is certainly a trip of a lifetime. Something which should be undertaken sooner rather than later. All the hikes were thoroughly enjoyable but it would have been so much easier if they had been done when we were much younger. I’m so glad we were able to achieve so much.

Some serious machinery at the airport - the yellow helicopters are for fly in fly out staff for the mining industry. The planes are part of the RFDS

The flight routes for taking guests to Horizontal Falls

A topographical map of the 'gaps we navigated. Talbot Bay is at the top of the map. The bay at the bottom has no other way out. If you get caught by the tide, you are stuck for 12 hours. Not too sure what happens when the tide comes in. I don't think it is navigable as all the tours are organised to coincide with the outgoing tide.

Back once again at Cable Beach Resort

Goodbye!