The Kimberley 2017: Wednesday 17 May - To Home Valley Station

Half way! We left Emma Gorge resort and after a morning stroll, headed for El Questro.

We had our first crossing of the Pentecost River heading into El Questro and after a quick comfort stop we took off for Chamberlain Gorge.

Morning colours greet us as we leave our tent

Aboriginal seasons explained

Boab nuts which are used a lot for decoration - painted or carved or simply displayed like this

Some wild donkeys

As a little bit of history, Chamberlain and Kimberley were both Colonial Secretaries in years before Federation. Now that the Bungle Bungles have been re-named Purnululu (not to mention Uluru), I wonder how long it will be before other iconic names will be replaced with more appropriate aboriginal names.

At water level in Chamberlain Gorge it is possible to see the El Questro homestead high above the gorge. However, in 2011 when cyclone Ingrid devastated the area the homestead was close to being washed away. As luck would have it a large boab tree washed down the flooded gorge and wedged itself between the steel piers on which the homestead was built some 20m above the level of the water. A further boab was wedged in behind, which saved the homestead from being wrenched off the rocks as the first boab was under pressure from the flood.

Pre-2011 flood boat trips travelled 7km up the gorge, now they can only go 3km because of the volume of boulders brought down in the flooded gorge and almost closed it off. Downstream towards where El Questro homestead is located some of these massive boulders can be seen protruding above the level of the water at the beginning of the dry.

The 2011 flood waters rose to this level

We headed back to the El Questro township (really just a campsite) where we could relax and swim in the Pentecost River if we chose. Lunch had been pre-ordered to have at the Steakhouse. Then it was off to Zebedee Springs.

Colours in this region are so wonderful, I decided to take some photographic licence

The Pentecost River

Tucking in to lunch - steak or barra

We spent a very pleasant time soaking in the thermal pools and getting a natural massage at a waterfall. Then it was back to El Questro to change before continuing on to our overnight stop at Home Valley Station.

Fruits on the pandanus

The pools were on three levels, others lower down took an easier route to get in the water

Taken with our under water camera. My feet are in the water - crystal clear

After several photo stops to take in the magnificent views of the Cockburn Ranges, as the sun was getting lower in the sky, we finally arrived at Home Valley Station. We were greeted with cool drinks and after being allocated our rooms we settled in. Then we returned to the main reception area for a tour with a local indigenous guide – Alfie or Allawah – who talked about Home Valley, how it was started and how it has now come to be in the hands of the Indigenous Land Corporation. A very interesting journey and one which has a bright future once land claims are determined.

We are all visitors to this place. We are just passing through. Our purpose here is to observe, to learn, to grow and then return home.

This place not only provides accommodation (Hugh Jackman stayed here during the filming of Australia) but is a centre for education and training of indigenous people in tourism and hospitality. Our guide Alfie told us his story – he was originally from Caboolture in Queensland – and because of this programme he has found a path in life which he is enthusiastic to pursue and grow in.

We were treated to sunset drinks on the banks of the Pentecost River and Alfie provided us with more information about how the station survives in the wet and how it is managed during this time, as well as showing photographs of some of the behind the scenes operations to keep the station running in the off (wet) season.